Replacing a bay window lintel/beam
Buying my first house and the surveyor recommended the lintel/bressomer beams above the bay window is replaced. It is drooping and noticeable by the brickwork above the bay window which has dipped slightly. Replacing it with a steel/concrete lintel was his recommendation and he said it was a £1000-£1200ish job. Almost all the house on the street have had the same work done.
Now I got my first quote for the work and they have said £3850 and that seems to include taking the whole bay window apart. When I questioned it the guy said that it factored in work required that any other estimate I had probably didnt consider.
Is he taking the mickey or should I be anticipating a higher cost for this work more along his lines?
View related: How does my lintel look?2011-10-28 03:13:53Novice here, so some stupid questions first. I assume the blue steel beam I'm seeing between the window frame and bricks is the lintel yes??
As you can see from the picture there seems to be a gap between the this lintel and brickwork...around 1 cm in the midpoint. The window is 3.6m wide, quite wide by modern standards I think. On the inside, there are some cracks in the plaster along the width of the window about 10cm up from the edge.
The house was built in 1969. We had a fairly thorough survey done when we bought the house, but this wasn't mentioned. Any opinion as to how worried we should be?? How easy is it to fix a sagging lintel? We intend to change the window next year, possibly bricking it up to waist level, but keeping the width....
putting french doors where an existing window is sited2011-11-01 08:37:53above the existing window there seems to be some type of supporting metal beam/lintel and line of bricks above this beam are placed LLLLL not the conventional longnitudal way !___! !___!
how hard would it be to install french doors (same width as existing opening). is it a case of hole in wall above the lintel, support the wall, make the opening big enough and re brick with new frame installed??
or am i making this should a wee be too easy??
1940's building 2 skin london brick i think. Feel free rip me to pieces as its my first house and i`m pretty new to DIY.
although i`m a young civil engineer...
Replacing wooden window with 2 lintel sections joined above?2013-07-17 12:00:59Hi all - am embarking on replacing the rotten wooden window frame in my single storey kitchen. However, I have discovered that the wooden lintel which runs the length of the kitchen above 1 door and 1 large window seems to be in 2 pieces, with the join above the window. I can't see any thing joining the 2 sections of lintel - they're just butted together (from my view from the outside of the lintel).
Has anyone seen anything like this? How can I go about replacing the window?...
Extend existing bay window2011-10-25 12:16:21Hi,
I'm hoping to get a little advice prior to tackling some double glazing companies for quotes on enlarging an existing bay that we have in our late Victorian house.
The existing upvc bay measures approximately 2.1 metres wide, with a single opening door in the middle and angled sides. This can be seen in the photo here:
We want to extend the bay to go along the entire side of the kitchen/diner as marked out by the red line, which would make it 4.4m wide.
Up until very recently, there was a very poorly constructed brick/timber sun room removed from the left hand side of this picture, as can be seen by the white plaster dust still on the bricks. As such, there is a solid concrete base in place where we wish to put the new bay.
A major concern that we have, is that the chimney that can be seen at the top of the photo does not extend down to ground level (but is still in place with fireplaces at the first floor level, which we want to keep) but doesn't appear to my eyes as being adequately supported. There is a timber beam running across the ground floor room at right angles to this photo, with one end marked out in green on the photo. At first we thought this was because a ground level wall had been removed, and that there was a solid wall above that needed supporting, but the only wall above is marked in yellow (i.e. not above the green beam) and is a stud wall anyway.
The beam can be seen inside the room here:
We actually very much want to remove this wooden beam if it isn't serving a purpose, but we're wondering if it's playing some part in keeping the chimney above from collapsing. For what it's worth, the floorboards on the floor above run parallel to this beam.
With all this in mind, is it likely a case of putting in an RSJ across the full width of the bay to adequately support the exterior wall and chimney above? The chimney stack appears to be the same thickness as the exterior wall above the roof, but extends 20cm in to the first fl......
lintel - replace, leave or replace and change window2011-10-30 03:34:34I recently had my house valued. It's a late Victorian terraced house and one estate agent pointed out cracks round the kitchen window and said that the lintel needed replacing. He thought that any buyer might ask to deduct this cost from the selling price. I wondered if it might be worth replacing the lintel now and while I am at it changing the window to a french door. That way I change a problem into an asset (as this would give direct access from the galley kitchen into the garden). My question is one of cost. Could anyone please give me a rough estimate of the cost of replacing a lintel versus the cost of replacing the lintel and the window with an 'off the peg' wooden patio door. The window is 118 cm wide and currently 133cm long the space for a door would be 222cm long.
Thanks in advance....
Rotten wooden lintel needs replacing with what? See pix!2011-10-28 00:18:31A first floor window on the gable side of my 1927 house needs a new lintel.
Looking up to the window
The old wooden one has rotted away and I'm not sure if replacing it is a job I can tackle easily.
The window itself
(It seems to have been rotten for many years, judging how it fell to bits when I touched it.)
Cavity wall brick.
Window space is 510 mm wide.
Space above frame 90 mm.
Close up of the window
1. I assume I could buy a Catnic lintel of exactly the right dimensions and insert it into the space?
2. But how 'tight' does it have to be on the bricks?
3. Is it easy to insert a new Catnic lintel?
4. Any tips about it not being supported currently?
I'm extremely grateful for any advice anyone can offer. Thanks....
Replacing bay windows - is supporting of upper floors an iss2011-11-01 13:27:39I am replacing two bay windows, one downstairs, one up. The width of each is 2m. The house is 1920s brick-built.
Will there be anything in the bay that is supporting the bricks above? Is there anyway I can find out? Does this pose a problem with replacing the windows?...
Top hung wooden bi fold doors2011-10-25 08:36:27Can anyone advise on the installation of top hung bi fold doors? I am worried about drilling holes into the lintel or is this acceptable with modern steel lintels? Also is this a DIY (fairly experienced, just put my own steel beam in which has been signed off by building control) job or only for window fitters? Replacing an existing set of old french doors....
Neighbours bay window replaced not supported and dropped2012-08-13 17:31:39Hi,
I live in a semi, the front windows are curved bays that come out from the front of the house. My neighbour who is the other part of my semi had there bay windows replaced, it was 'a much cheapness' job and they didnt support the bays correctly, net result for my neighbours were the bays dropped and the tops of the bays where they meet the house came away and caused them leaks etc. I only found after it had happened and they have now had the bay windows replaced correctly.
From a visual on the ground inspection I cannot see any damage to my property, though I have not been in the loft yet, (I only found out about the problems today). I don't know how the bays are constructed in a semi like mine and wondered if there is anything shared between the properties in terms of structure of the bay (a beam etc) and therefore what is the likely hood that there dropped bays would of damaged my property ?
need advice - changing bay window to french doors2011-10-28 23:33:49Can anyone advise??? We have a 1930s semi and at the back of the house is a bay window (5 yr old UPVC) with a small pitched slate 'roof' ontop.
The window projects 350mm from the back wall and has small side windows.
We really want to open this room up into the garden, and I'd like to get the doors made and install them myself.
The main problem I can forsee is there is only an original wooden lintel above the current upvc and the brick work above has dropped slightly.
(should have been done properly 1st time round?)
Should I look to fit a proper lintel or a small rsj, or should I not bother and simpy prop everything whilst removing and fitting?
I can knock out the brickwork below and make good. I can also measure up and specify for the upvc manufacturer, but in the use of acroes and lintles I would need some help or things may go nasty?!
Of course, it would be far easier to just forget the bay and put doors in flush with the main wall - but the lady if the house will hear none of it!
Any advice about this would be appreciated - Thanks...
Exterior Door Lintel2011-11-02 05:54:05I have a UPVC back door which I would like to replace, however the lintel above is a very old re-inforced concrete one (C1930's) and has started to rust. Result being I now have no concrete on the inside of the lintel, showing bare rusty metal. Would this still be OK? Or does it need ripping out and replacing? If so, I presume that I need to prop the wall above while doing it?
Thanks for advice... John...
need advice: replace with picture window or bay window?2011-10-25 22:54:10Hi all, I'm in need of advice on replacing our big living room picture window. More style/curb appeal/home value advice, really.
Should I replace the big window to the right of the front door with another picture/double hung combination? Or should I spend the extra $2k and make it a bay window? I was kinda thinking that the bay may add some curb appeal by adding depth to an otherwise flat front. But, i can't decide whether that is worth the extra cost. Would a bay window add any more value to a house than a picture window of the same size?
As for the inside, it is already a pretty open and spacious layout and is fairly clean and contemporary in decor. Would the bay window not match?
Thanks ahead of time for the advice!...
Fitting UPVC window frane to catnic lintel2011-10-28 01:13:35Hi,
Are there any issues I should be aware of when fitting the top of a UPVC window frame to a catnic lintel. The lintel is in a single storey extension so there is no brickwork above the lintel it is boxed in with soffit and facia. I am going to screw the frame on the sides with frame fixings and then use silicon sealent on the top where the frame meets the lintel. Is this sufficient.
No Lintel2012-03-27 18:36:08I want to replace my tiny bathroom window with a bigger one. For some reason a previous owner of the house took out a taller window and fitted a short one so it will mainly be a case of removing infill. The existing softwood frame is 550mm wide but I can buy a standard 600mm wide UPVC window quite cheaply. I investigated the brickwork today to see if the lintel is long enough to do its job with the wider window. I found there is no lintel. The brickwork is rendered so I could put in a concrete lintel if necessary. I have a 4' x 4' reinforced concrete fencing post which I could cut in half to support the inner and outer brickwork of the 9' wall. Do I need to do this or is the window narrow enough not to need a lintel?...
1930's bay windows2011-10-25 06:13:21Can I ask for some opinions please? We are replacing original metal in wood frames in curved bay windows so we need 5 single casement windows with small window at the top in each bay with a pole between each one. Have decided to go with a local supplier of one of the top-rated makes- rehau, veka, etc as advised by many. Now it's down to looks.
I know we need 70mm depth but are there different widths of frames and opening windows? Some look really bulky, especially the covers that go over the poles between each window and we don't want to lose too much light.. Which designs look best in 30's house? Our's is only house in street with curved bay so can't ask neighbours.
Anyway to increase external PVC bay window sills??2011-10-25 12:16:13I'm looking for some help with damp patches on rendering. Last year I had the house rendered, this also involved removing wall tiles off the bay, rebording and rendering the window bay between floors. The problem I'm now having, is that since this work was done, the gap between the wall and the overhang of the upstairs bedroom window sill is less than a c in some places. This is now causing the rain that builds up on the sill is running off straight down the bay in the same place, causing damp patches. Is there anyway I can uncrease the overhang to stop the wate running down the front bay? Replacing the external window sill is not an option, is there a way of increasing the overhang,so the just runs straight off??
Any advice will be very much appreciated....
strange lintel question2011-10-25 15:36:00Should lintel be placed as soon as a hole has been knocked out for a new window placement or could it wait a week or two. If it stays lintel-free for couple weeks, will it cause any structural damage to a three story brick townhouse? Please help clarify....
Upvc window question2013-06-09 05:28:21I have some double glazed units that have misted up. Im looking at replacing the glass but also considering the cost of replacing the whole lot, frames aswell as some need tarting up and to be more pleasing on the eye.
Obviously I dont want to spend needless money so im looking up my options. One window I hate is the rear lounge. The seal has gone and the whole frame looks like it has dropped slightly. Externally there is pvc strip between the frame and lintel that as stated above looks like its been dislodged.
What exactly is it? Is it just to fill the gap between frame and lintel. Can it. Be removed and suitable replacement be inserted??
holding the strip in correct place...
Installing a new window (Including lintel)2011-10-29 06:39:22I'm looking for some advice so I can install a window into our small bathroom which is currently windowless! These forums look quite active so hopefully someone here can help
I've been to the local building yard and the most appropriate lintel I can find for our timber frame house is an L shaped lintel. Does this sound like a sensible choice? I've seen on the internet some specific timber frame lintels that also attach to the timber frame as well as the outer later of brick.
Assuming I use an L shaped lintel, I plan to cut the mortar out to accept the lintel and then slip it in before removing the bricks for the opening. I wouldn't expect to need any acros for this as the bathroom window will only be about 600mm wide! My concern is how will the lintel be held in place? I'll wedge the lintel in place to take up any excess in the gap, then fill with mortar; will this be sufficient or is there a need to tie it in place?
Thanks for any advice you can offer....
No outer lintel2011-10-28 07:55:49Hello,
I'm replacing a set of old set of softwood french doors for a customer. On seeing the job, the owners pointed out that there doesn't appear to be a lintel supporting the outer brickwork above the existing doors.
I've contacted B.C to notify them of the the change of doors to UPVC.
Starting the job i have found a lintel supporting the inner brickwork
but none on the outer. With it being face brickwork on the outside fitting a standard plank lintel will look horrible. Any ideas folks?
Just to point out that i know for a fact that from experience 'named' Fensa window suppliers / fitters don't get involve in fitting lintels they just install, trim up and go.
Now i pointed this problem out to B.C , it's my problem.
Can someone enlighten me?!