Another rotten rim joist / deck :)
https://picasaweb.google.com/diggla64/20110910?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGE9tXYxumc9AE#Oh well my turn now. I removed my old deck. The deck ledger was fine but the mudsill and rimjoist were compost. No proper deck flashing
(was over the furring) . No caulking. No door flashing. I removed the deck. The ledger. rimjoist. mudsill. The doors will go. The single door will be walled in. The double will be replaced by a window. Everything is now supported by perpendicular blocks of 2x10 that I inserted as I was removing the rim joist in section. The floor/wall between the two doors has sunk 1/2 inch. The sill (and underlying plywood floor
) of the 2x6 wall is partly rotten ... about an inch at most. The blocks are resting directly on the foundation. The blocks are currently cut to conform to the dip, this means the ones between the doors are 8 3/4 high instead of 9 1/4. I will remove the doors. Jack the floor up and insert permanent 9 1/4 blocks. Install mudsill and rim joist. And re-frame the door openings.I will need to raise the wall section between the doors up 1/2 inch in order to slide the new mudsill-rim joist in. I will replace plywood/sill where the door openings are. I am not sure about replacing the sill and plywood between the two doors as this is not as accessible and might require me to destroy or affect the inside wall that took the load after the initial damage (which I guess happened before I bought the house 7 years ago since nothing has moved since bought the house)I just can't convince myself to thrash the inside of the house for 1 inch of rot on a 2x6 + plywood.Does dry black rot
expand after water infiltration is stopped ? Am I looking for trouble ?Should I just trim 1 inch of the sill/plywood and glue/screw another inch back to make it purty ?
View related: Freestanding deck rim joist connection2011-10-26 10:54:45I am in the process of building a freestanding deck and need advice on how to attach the rim joist that is next to the house to the joists running perpendicular to it. The rim joist will end up being around an inch away from the brick veneer. I have looked all over, and no one goes into detail on how to do this. My thinking is to put a few joists up on the beams and temporarily hold them down with straps or screws, so I can attach the rim joist to their ends. Then, push the rim joist with attached joists back up against the house. Will this work, or is there a better way? The deck will be 28 x 12, so its going to be a lot of wood to push. Thanks for your help....
How to replace a rotten rim joist behind a raised concrete slab2011-11-03 10:46:04The rim joist and sill plate are rotten and I need to replace them on at least 12 feet. The problem is, I have a 12' x 15' x 6' concrete slab in the way. You guessed it, right above this is a sliding patio door. There doesn't seem to be any flashing or water proofing. It seems that they tried to key in the slab to the rim joist. The scrap of denim is to keep the critters from getting in. The rim joist now has the consistency of mud. These are only 4 of many pics.
Any suggestions? Should I get rid of the slab or try and do it from the inside?
I basically want to do this right and once and for all.
Thanks for your input
Deck joist hanger question - rim joist2012-08-09 17:01:03I have a staircase coming down from a short section of deck, and to get my railing posts to line up correctly I really want to double up on the rim joist in that location. I'm stuck on how to properly attach this joist to the ledger board.
Should I just use a concealed hanger on the outboard joist, and nail the inboard joist to it? Here is a picture:...
Attach deck ledger to house - blind2012-12-11 05:23:32I am tearing off some severely rotten decks - so bad I can reach into the joists and grab whole fists full of wet mush. One is a second floor deck. I can obviously get to the outside of the rim joist, but the back side of it is not accessible. I would normally through bolt the ledger to the rim bolt, but I cannot do that in this case.
Can anyone suggest a viable and legal alternative or method?
Unsafe Deck?2012-08-27 22:01:18I recently purchased a 6-year old house with an existing wooden deck attached to the back of the house. I noticed this past weekend that the rim joist is face nailed to the 6x6 posts. Would the addition of diagonal bracing and through-bolts where the rim joist is attached to the beam, provide enough support for the rim joist? I'm afraid this may be an expensive repair otherwise....
Simpson Joist Hanger Question2012-08-11 23:06:02I'm building a floating deck and I'm using the LUS model joist hanger from Simpson. Instructions call for a 10D, 3' nail for a single 2x or I can use the #9 2-1/2' Simpson screws. Since I'm hanging the joists on a 2x8 rim joist, either of these options are too long. I want the joist to provide the required support but I don't want anything breaking through the backside of the rim joist, so just use 1-1/2' nails?
Makes sense to me, but just want to make sure.
Yes, this is my first deck....
replace/repair rotten rim joist (with picture)2012-09-06 15:11:16Hello,
I need to repair or replace a rotten rim joist on my house and have posted pics below. Assuming I get rid of what caused the rot in the first place, I have three questions about my options to fix the rotten board:
1. Given the board is not completely rotted through (it is rotten up to .5' deep on the exterior side), can it be repaired with penetrating epoxy alone?
2. Perhaps in addition to epoxy, can I also sister another board next to it from the inside (making cut-outs for the sill bolts) to provide additional strength/backup?
3. Do I need to replace the board? If so, I imagine I'll need house jacks and may need to cut-out the higher portion of the concrete patio to gain access...correct? I wouldn't plan on replacing the rim joist myself but would appreciate your opinions to help me be better educated when I get an estimate.
View from outside (note hose bib and cut-out in concrete near pry-bar - the sources of the moisture that caused the rot). The gap between the concrete and side of the house is from where I pulled out a rotten water-table board (2x10 cedar) that was attached to the exterior of the rim joist.
A close-up of the rot from the outside:
Another close-up of rot from outside, this time at a pre-existing hole for an old dryer vent:
Same hole, view from inside crawl space:
View of backside of rim joist from inside crawl space:...
rim board replacement2012-11-21 20:21:11Rim board needs to be replaced that supported a ledger board. Behind the rim board is an I-Joist that runs parallel. The rim board is attached to it. The I joist is in good condition. the I-joist/rim board is under a 2 x 6 wall.
Wanting to know if can remove the rimboard with out causing damage to the house. It appears that all the weight is on the I-joist. The rim board is brittle and is show no bowing due to weight on it.
Ledger Board Mounting to Rim Joist2012-09-20 05:26:15I am planning to attach a deck to my house and have a question about attaching the ledger board. The rim joist is (2) 2x10's sandwiched and I want to use a 2x10 for my ledger board. I need to mount the top of the ledger board halfway down the rim joist. The gives me 5' of the rim joist to attach my ledger board. Is this an issue or do I need bolts attached to the bottom 5' of my ledger board as well? The issue is that below the rim joist is concrete block with brick covering so mounting the bottom of the ledger board is a bit of an issue....
replacing rotten rim joist2012-06-21 05:06:34Howdy,
The front of my house is rotten! I pulled the siding off and realized that the wood frame that the siding skirt was mounted to was touching the ground and wicking moisture up. The house is built like a barn pretty much, and is sitting on cinder blocks.
I have 3, 20-ton bottle jacks and plenty of PT lumber. I've leveled the rest of the house and replaced a few other sections of joists under the house, but, this being an outside wall, is probably more dangerous. Could me and a few other people do this? Could I jack the rotten rim joist and replace it in sections? Or should I jack the whole wall and replace the whole thing at once?
I know I should hire a professional to do this, but I can't and I need to get it done before it gets any worse.
Deck: how to attach stringers2011-11-11 15:52:44Hello all,
Total klutz here, fixing my deck stairs.
There is a landing, and then 3 steps up to the main deck. I’m replacing the last bit, from landing to deck.
The top step is down, not level with the main deck. So there are three sets of treads but four rises. Total rise is 29 ¼” from tread-surface of landing to that of the deck. Total run is about 30”. The stairs are about 4’ wide.
The existing construction is flimsy. Everything is pressure treated, and the stringers were made out of 2 x 12, which is good. But the deck uses 2x6 joists; the rim joist is not doubled. The stringers do not reach the rim joist at all; their tops are about ¼ inch below the bottom of it. The guy nailed up three two-foot vertical 1 x 3’s to the inside of the rim joist (the side toward the deck, not the stairs) so they project down a foot or so, and then attached the stringers to those. Is this as laughable as it looks to me?
So what to do? Should I put in a hanger board? I imagine using 2 x 12, across the width of the stairs. This would project down about 4” below the rim joist, which is enough for the stringers to attach to. I would put the hanger board on the inside of the rim joist, where the silly sticks are now. Does that sound solid?
How do I attach the hanger board to the joist? How do I attach the stringers to the hangar board? (I assume I just nail/screw through the hanger board from the backside into the end of the stringer? What should I use for nails/screws?)
If there are relevant existing threads, point me to ‘em. The ones I found about how to attach stringers seemed to assume indoor use.
Thanks in advance,
Band/Rim Joist - Water Damage...Repair?2012-10-03 18:31:20As you can see from the picture there is a very small section of damaged Rim Joist. The chimney, which is behind it, had leaked from the flashing on the roof (wasnt properly flashed or cemented).
What do you guys recommend on this situation?
Also, some of the subfloor is rotten and damaged so I will be removing the old and patching the gaps with new OSB....
How to seal openings in rim joist2012-04-29 05:56:52Hi guys. While running power to a shed, I ran my conduit out the rim joist of the house and down the foundation wall. Now I'm just trying to figure out what the best way is to seal around the conduit where it passes through my rim joist. If it makes any difference, it's actually also passing through a ledger board for my deck, which is bolted to the rim joist. Here's a pic. In its installed position, the LB fitting in the picture is pushed flush against the ledger board, so the opening around the conduit isn't as large as it appears here.
So what would be the best option for sealing around that conduit? I picked up a can of that Great Stuff fireblock expanding foam, but wasn't sure if simple silicone caulk would be a better choice, or something else I haven't thought of. Any input? Thanks!
Deck - Framing around a bay window - house rim joist changes levels?2011-10-25 09:13:57Since code does not allow a ledger board to be attached to a bay window cantilevering out from the house, I planned on framing around the window as shown in Fig. 35 at http://www.lancova.com/deckinfo.pdf. However, in my case, the interior floor level of my house drops immediately on one side of the bay window (slightly sunken family room), and therefore the house rim joist are at different levels on either side of the bay window. How can I frame around this bay window? Any help? I don't feel comfortable trying to find the wall studs and tying into them. thanks
Since the house rim joists are at different levels, I planned on the deck being two levels following the level of the house rim joist....
retrofit mudsill anchor bolts with2011-10-27 06:32:56Hi,
I'm changing the mudsill and rim joist on my house.
Any idea on a proper way to anchor the (embeded) mudsill without interfering with the rim joist ?
There use to be a deck ledger over the sill (which is obviously the cause for the repairs )
Use something like this http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalo...fit_bolts.html in the middle of mudsill and notch the joist sheating ?...
Exhaust Venting Through Rim Joist2012-02-27 07:16:30Just curious what the ontario building code says about this.
Im installing a bathroom exhaust fan in a basement and need to put the 4' ducting through the rim joist (I know the hole should be centered) but in the OBC is there an allowable hole size that can be put through the exterior rim joist? I mean its ffully supoorted below by a continous plate and teh oundation.
Ive heard before that the allowable hole size is one third of the size of the joist meaning in a 2x8 rim joist I would only be able to cut out a 2 3/8' hole? Not sure if this is true or not. Anyone know?...
Rim joist attachment2012-10-17 21:21:24My deck is supported by a ledger and has double rim joists on each side. The double rim joists are attached to the house sheathing with hangers and the ledger starts and ends between the double rim joists. Should the rim joists be attached to the ledger rather than the house?...
sealing the rim joist2012-09-12 23:01:34Hello,
I'm in the process of trying to seal up and insulate an unfinished basement utility room in my home (built 1979). The place i'm kindof stuck at right now, is what to do with the exposed rim joist, as well as what to do with where the rim joist meets the concrete wall.
I have attached a picture of a small section of a wall i'm dealing with.
My first question is, are there any possible problems with filling the rim joist to foundation joint with caulk? (ie. moisture issues) The reason I ask is that in pretty much every guide or tutorial i've looked at, the rim joist doesn't meet the wall directly, but instead it's sitting on a sill plate. Does this change anything in my situation?
The foundation wall is 8' thick, so i'm assuming the rim joist you see in the pics is actually 5 or so 2x10's nailed together?
Another thing to note is the area shown in the picture is roughly 2.5 feet above grade, if that affects anything.
Thanks for any help.. this might be a really easy question, but I just don't want to dive in and make changes that are going to cause damage down the line....
No rim joist?2012-10-20 04:40:54after reading here about the benefits of insulating your rim joist, i decided to do mine, but when i went to inspect it i didn't see a rim joist area. cuts were made in the cinder block and the floor joists appear to sit directly inside those cuts on top of the cinder block foundation. there is no cavity to insulate like ive been seeing with normal rim joists. You can see in the pictures how the joists are sitting on the block and that there is no joist behind the block. is this normal?...
power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....2012-10-30 15:05:59I am expanding an existing timbertech deck. I'd like the seam between the old decking and new to be flush but am having a hard time finding floor joists(2x10's) that have no crown. The old & new decking will meet at the ends of the decking boards. I've put a 6ft level on the existing decks rim joist and it has no crown. I am attaching the new 2x10 to the rim joist of the old deck and spanning from there. The joist is 14ft long and are the best available in my area. I didn't buy them from Lowes or H.D.
I don't have a table saw and figured a belt sander would take a long time to get the board flat. Would a power planer be my best choice?
Or would I be better of using one of these and nailing it in place once the crown is pulled down? http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Deck-Dev.../dp/B005V2VPVK
Thanks in advance for any feedback...